Wednesday 7 October 2020

September Holiday: Day 4 - Part II

(Previous post continued) Views from the top of Siplinger Kopf:



I loved the look of those ridges, making it visible how millions of years ago the mountains were folding up.



These mountain daws were constantly flying about in the most acrobatic manner. They know that where there are people, there is food, and waited patiently to be thrown some bits. (Not from us, though.)

After resting for a while, we started on the most challenging part of the entire hike, the descent. Already from our place on the grass near the top we had seen other hikers coming and going and knew more or less what to expect: a path so narrow that no two people can pass each other, along the top of a rocky ridge with sheer drops on both sides - hence the aptly named tour ("Gratwanderung" or balance act). One had to have a good head for heights and simply focus on that bit along the ridge, and there was no way I would have stopped to take a picture while navigating that ridge. It was made easier by its shortness, and the steep climb down behind the top was really a climb in that we needed both hands and feet to get down safely.

This is not the "worst" bit, but it gives you an idea of what it was like.

From there on, the path was much more comfortable again, meandering along the mountain ridge almost the whole length of the Balderschwang valley before starting to curve to the bottom of the valley just after the Stillberg Alpe.





Looking back almost the whole length of Balderschwang valley



Not long before reaching the hut, we had come across an elderly gentleman in the woods, holding a cloth bag and a knife. He was looking for mushrooms, and we exchanged a friendly greeting and a few words about the beauty of the area. 

At the hut, we were not sure whether it was a private one or open for business; we saw a woman at one of the windows, and greeted her. She told us that it was only their own private place for weekends and holidays, but of course she would help us out with water or food in case of an emergency, and if we needed a rest, we could sit on the bench outside. We were fine and did not need anything from her, but it was nice chatting for a bit - the man in the woods was her husband, and they had come up this weekend explicitly for the mushrooms. If you look at the picture of the hut, you can see a trestle table with a wooden crate to the right of the building - this is where the mushrooms are sorted, cleaned and dried.


We were still relatively high up at that point, and from now on, going steeply downhill for what felt like hours. It was just as exhausting as the long stretch uphill at the beginning, and we were glad to reach the bottom of the valley and walk on a level road back to the hotel, where we arrived mid-afternoon. 


It was another warm and sunny day, and once again we had coffee and cake on the terrace outside before heading to the spa. Dinner was welcome, too, and it was probably one of the earliest times during our stay that we retreated to our room.

It was definitely a hike I am not going to forget; I was glad I did it, and managed it rather well, but I am not keen on a repeat any time soon.

10 comments:

  1. Reading about the beginning of your descent was a bit frightening. I could imagine that some might not be able to accomplish this. What could they do? Could they return the way they had come? At least it did not last long, that worst part! It is all very beautiful and you should be proud of yourselves, but I understand that you would not be eager to do it again!

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    1. It took a bit of courage, but as long as one remained focused, there was no immediate danger. I agree, not everybody would have been able to do that specific route. Climbing up and down the way we came was physically demanding, too, but not quite as challenging, and I expect some hikers prefer that, although it would mean they have to walk a very long detour if they still wanted to end up on the path leading along the valley.

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  2. Wonderful photos. The first photo reminded me of being in a plane and coming in for a landing fairly low over mountain tops where the city is in a valley on the other side--looking down at tops. Can think of several places I've landed where that has been the case.

    Isn't it funny that many people seem to think coming down a hill/mountain is easier than going up? I've often found it the opposite; coming down a mountain (or any steep decline) is terribly hard on my knees and shins. And then there is the feeling of perhaps pitching forward and not being able to catch oneself. Or maybe it is just my aging knees. :)

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    1. Thank you, Mary. I enjoyed looking at the valley and making out our hotel and other landmarks from various heights and angles during this holiday.
      My knees and shins are usually fine going downhill, but when the path is steep or rough (or both) and the descent is seemingly endless, I find it is also mentally hard to keep focused, and just want to walk on level ground without having to carfully place my feet with every step. The balance thing is also there, of course, especially when carrying a rucksack.

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  3. I am glad you shared your beautiful views with us as I know I would never be able to make a climb like that! You are in good shape AND brave! So lovely to see, tho. You certainly have had a wonderful, active holiday! Thanks so much for your posts!

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    1. You are welcome to come along any time, Ellen :-)
      I wish I were in as good a shape as everyone seems to think, and brave. Panting, puffing and sweating profusely on such ascents does not feel particularly fit, especially not if I see many folks much older than myself doing the same hikes with apparently much less effort.
      When you have a desk job like we do, physical activities in your free time are so important for your wellbeing.

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  4. What an achievement such a hike was for you both! I can see where even accomplished hikers such as you and O.K. could be challenged by this hike. I've always loved mountains but never have I seen such a beautiful expanse of mountains as these! Would you mind if I used a couple of these pictures for my desk top photo? You had an amazing holiday!

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    1. Of course you are welcome to use any picture of my blog as your desk top photo, Bonnie - it is flattering to know they make their way to other people's computers so far away!
      I kept marvelling at the other hikers we encountered during our hikes, and especially this one; there were not a few I estimated to be at least 10-15 years older than us, and they did not seem to be as out of breath and sweaty as myself when they reached the top.

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  5. Well that was a bit of an emotional journey. Physical for you but I spent time lost in the hills and thinking about the times I've been up in the hills and how that is a thing of the past. Mind you I've not walked in such beautiful sunshine on very many occasions. Although it may be that I just remember all the rainy hikes more vividly.

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    1. Rainy hikes have been few and far between in my life - or maybe I just remember all the sunny ones better! No, I guess we (as a child with my parents and later on my own, with my sister or others, now with O.K.) simply didn't go in wet weather.
      I believe we have discussed this on another blog before - when do you call it a hill, and when does it classify as mountain?

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