Thursday Not in Saltaire

For Thursday (23 July), our original plan had been a day out with our landlady and neighbour, J. We had meant to drive to Saltaire, look at the Hockney works of art in particular and the place in general, and meeting for a coffee or so with Saltaire-based blogger Jennyfreckles, who had sent me a great list of suggestions for places for lunch or coffee.

However, just before we arrived in Ripon our landlord informed us that his wife had broken her wrist and was unable to drive. We were very sorry for her and postponed our trip to Saltaire until next year.

This meant an unexpected ‚free‘ day, and we started it off by visiting friends in Ripon for refreshing drinks in their garden which backs on to the canal. It was lovely to see them and sit there on a fine summer morning catching up until it was time for S. to go to her sister‘s and daughter‘s shop in the middle of town where she helps out some days.

We walked with her, had a bit of a wander round and then went to Oliver‘s Pantry for a delicious lunch. A stroll across the market was next; we noticed a further decline in the number of stalls and visitors compared to last year and previous years. Large parts of the market square were empty. 

Three of Ripon‘s bookshops - among them our firm favourite, The Little Ripon Bookshop - were our next stops as well as a few other shops before we went back to the cottage for a rest, followed by coffee/tea and biscuits on the sunny bench in front of the house.

I then went to visit Mary for an hour. These pictures are from my way there and back:

Afterwards my sister and I walked to the Leper Chapel which to our surprise was still open.

For our tea we heated two small quiches we had bought fresh from the baker that morning, and my sister prepared a nice summerly salad to go with it.

Later, I facetimed my husband.

Wednesday in Ripon

We spent all of Wednesday (22 July) in Ripon, starting after a leisurely breakfast of fresh fruit and muesli with a visit to the cathedral. Again, no matter how often we‘ve already been in there, we never tire of wandering around, looking at architectural and other details and generally just soaking up the relaxing, peaceful, calm, warm and welcoming atmosphere of this ancient building.

If you want to know dates and historical and current facts, the wikipedia entry about the cathedral is very useful.

We had lunch at Realitea, a small Indian restaurant we discovered only last year (or was it in 2024?); the owner is a young Indian woman who cooks based on traditional and family recipes, and she usually comes out to the tables and asks people how they liked their food. Service is always friendly, and the food has an authentic home-cooked feel about it; very nice and highly recommended, should you ever find yourself in Ripon and looking for a place to have lunch, or a selection of premium teas and lovely cakes.

We went through a few shops, had a brief rest at home and then set off for a walk around the neighbourhood for about an hour.

Nature reserve down Springfield Banks, Ripon

At 7:00 pm, we were at our former landlady‘s who has become a friend over the years. She offered champagne for starters, and that was before I told her that I was married - of course then we clinked glasses again. It was a most pleasurable evening with delicious food and drink, catching up and conversation freely flowing.

It wasn‘t yet fully dark by the time we walked back to the cottage; that‘s the advantage of British summertime and being further North than where we live.

Studley Royal, Fountains Hall and Fountains Abbey

Every time my sister and I are in Ripon for our annual Yorkshire holiday, a walk to Fountains Abbey is a Must Do for us. We love the place, and the walk there is part of the experience.

It doesn‘t take long from the cottage on Coltsgate Hill to Studley Roger, the hamlet at the bottom gate to Studley Royal, the deer park that leads to Fountains Abbey. The whole estate is beautiful, and even when there are many visitors (as they were on this sunny and warm but not too hot Tuesday) you can avoid the crowds by choosing different paths and visiting the shop, restaurant or tea room at a less busy time.

It took us an hour and 20 minutes to reach the visitor centre at the top end of Fountains Abbey, with photo stops and a brief rest on a bench to have a drink of water included.

We sat on the benches either side of the door to St. Mary‘s for a brief resr.

The view we had from there

A large group of people with dogs were queuing at the ticket counter, but we were not in a hurry to get in and took our time to browse the adjacent National Trust Shop. They always have great books and beautiful things, but we are of course limited in what we can buy - it has to fit in our bags, which we have to be able to carry between and on and off trains without help at all times. We got a few ideas for souvenirs, though, without buying anything just yet.

By now it was early lunch time, and we took advantage of the restaurant not yet being very busy. We shared a quiche and a filo pie whith side salads, all very nice.

Finally, we had the ticket counter to ourselves and gained entry.

The first glimpse of Abbot Marmaduke‘s tower is always exciting, no matter how many times I‘ve seen it!

On to Fountains Hall we went, where a large upstairs room has been opened that was not accessible for visitors before. It holds a portrait of the Mallory (or Mallorie) family who owned the estate and lived at the hall in the 17th century. The painting has been restored, and replicas of the clothes the family are wearing are displayed on dummies, with many different aspects explained, for instance what it meant that the lady wore pearls and why the little boy is in a dress. We were fascinated and talked to the two very nice volunteer ladies in the room.

The walled garden and summer house were next, and from there we walked across the orchard to Fountains Mill. 

No new exhibition was in this the oldest building of the entire estate, and so it didn‘t take us long to move on to the actual abbey.

Abbot Marmaduke‘s tower close up

If I had to pick only one picture from that day, this would be it.

Leaving the ruins behind and following the river, we reached the Georgian water park. The lack of rain was very obvious there, too. 

At the end of the water park is a tea house by the lake where we nearly always stop for a drink and a rest, and this was no exception.

Back to Ripon and straight to Mary‘s, my former mother-in-law, where my sister-in-law was waiting for us with tea and a delicious carrot cake. We enjoyed that in the back garden and talked to Mary, joined after a while by her cat - and a youngish hedgehog, who was obviously looking for water. A. set down a dish of cat food and a small bowl of water for him or her, and we hope it‘ll help surviving the long dry spell.

Mary is now 92 and doing relatively well for her age. It was good to see her, and of course we‘ll visit again before our time in Ripon is over.

On our way back to the cottage we stopped at M&S for some groceries. Shortly after we were home, our landlady knocked at the door, a bottle of rosé in hand and suggesting a drink and chat - pefect timing! We had plenty to catch up on, as you can imagine (she didn‘t know of my wedding, among other things).

After she left, my sister prepared a bowl of salad for us which we had with bread and cheese. A very good and very full first day!