Tuesday 19 May 2020

A New Circuit

On Wednesday, the 7th of May, we decided to walk to a viewing tower called Urenkopfturm, within easy reach of the small town of Haslach, about half an hour's drive from the village. While we had been to the picturesque town once before, neither of us had ever done the circular walk from there or been to the tower, so it was a new circuit for both of us.

With restaurants etc. still closed, we made our own sandwiches and packed a rucksack (which O.K. kindly carried all the way) and set off from the parking lot.

On a freshly cut meadow, this stork walked "with us" for a bit:


I did not take pictures during the first part of the circuit. The path took us past a memorial for a labour camp where imprisoned men (the majority had been fighting in the French RĂ©sistance) were forced to work and live (rather: vegetate) in underground tunnels. Hundreds of them died under the unimaginably conditions; of hunger, cold, desease and/or the punishments inflicted on them by their guards. Such places are very important to keep the memory of those horrors alive as a warning and out of respect for the innocent victims, but I did not feel it appropriate to take pictures there.

On we walked, up to the highest point of the circuit, the Urenkopf. At 554 m, it is not very high, but believe me - the ascent still made me breathless! I can walk for hours on (relatively) even ground, but am very bad at going uphill.

It was definitely worth it, though! The tower's viewing platform is at 33 m and offers great views of the area.


This wasp was looking for a new home, I think; there were several around, but not too many to make me feel uncomfortable. They seemed to be "drilling" the wooden pillars of the tower, and I am not sure whether it was for food or if they nest that way.
 

As you can tell from my clothes, the day (and the shade in the woods as well as the wind on top of the tower) was still relatively chilly:


View along the Kinzig valley:


The path we had come:


Haslach, where we had parked the car (on the outskirts):



We ate our sandwiches at a wooden table at the bottom of the tower and then walked the rest of the circuit, all downhill from here.


A painter named Karl (often spelled Carl) Sandhaas worked and lived in Haslach. He was very talented but unhappy; today we would say he suffered clinical depression. This viewing spot gave his ill soul comfort; he built himself a shelter here (as the sign below tells us). Of course today's hut is not the original one anymore, and the view is probably rather different - Haslach must have been much smaller in the mid-1800s - but still beautiful.


Please look at some of his work here; I found his self-portrait as a young man especially touching.


A bit further on, we came across a small chapel in the woods. You know I had to investigate, and was pleased to find it open.


 On the slope rising from the chapel, this small grotto looks as if it has regular visits:


The nearby fountain is called Kindlesbrunnen ("kids' fountain") 


Along the beck downhill from the fountain, three little "houses" have been set up. They are mechanical shows of typical craft you would have found along rivers and becks in the Black Forest until as late as the 1950s: a smithy, a corn mill and a saw mill (if I remember correctly); the water flowing down drives the little "men" and their machines. As a child, I would have been endlessly fascinated by this, and my parents would have had a hard time dragging me away from there!
 

Coming out of the woods towards Haslach, and then back along the top of the field where a few hours before we had seen the stork:





It had been a beautiful walk with great views, one I would like to repeat at some stage, maybe in autumn, when the trees sport their different colours.

16 comments:

  1. Appreciate that you did not take photos of the former prison/camp. I remember standing on the Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor and feeling utter sadness. Much like Arlington and Cambridge Cemeteries, the Cenotaph in London, 9/11 memorials and so many others. No desire to take photos. Enough to remember and wish...never again.

    The rest of your views are wonderful. Such blue skies. And can see why you were moved by Sandhass' portrait. A great deal of melancholy in his face--even as a young man.

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    1. The painter's eyes are so expressive, aren't they. And he lived in such a beautiful area; no wonder the view provided at least some comfort.

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  2. A beautiful walk. I can understand why you might like to repeat it in different seasons. So much sadness when visiting site of the prison camp. I wish people could not do such things. There is so much good in human nature but sometimes it all goes awry. I would love to know more about this Karl Sandhaas. The portrait of him when young seems very sensitive. My favorite photo from this post is the last one. It is so beautiful. I wish I could walk right into it!

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    1. Kristi, I loved that last bit, too; such landscapes where you do not just see woodland but a mix of woods and hedgerows and fields are my favourite.
      Karl/Carl Sandhaas has a wikipedia entry in the German version; possibly you will find more information in English, too.

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  3. What a beautiful hike! So much to see and you did a great job of sharing it with us. The view from that tower was awesome, altho, my legs would have been burning with that climb to the top! Well done! Thanks for posting!

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    1. Glad you enjoyed it, Ellen! Climbing to the top of the tower was no problem after a brief rest at the bottom, but I admit I did not feel like getting up there straight away when we arrived at the top of the hill.

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  4. This was a wonderful walk filled with much to see and enjoy! The views from the tower are amazing. I love the landscape of the gently rolling hills. I looked at the artwork you linked. His self portrait was haunting. I agree, this is a walk worth repeating in another season.

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    1. Those eyes are just so... I don't know, the look just "got" to me.
      It was indeed a wonderful walk! I love the Black Forest, and my favourite views are those where you don't see towns or villages, just rows of wooded hills.

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  5. Like you Meike, I'm not good at uphill or a lot of steps/stairs, any longer - and rambling - or perhaps even just ambling has become my speed on a walk. I can however step out at a pretty good speed when on the flat running track at the nearby high school - guess that's real walking, but not real fun!

    Such picturesque scenery - you were fortunate to be within walking distance of those views, and it would be lovely to return in Autumn and see the trees changing color. Were you bothered by any biting insects along the way? That's always my problem when in the countryside - or even in my own garden now mosquito season has arrived, grrrrr!!!!!

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    1. No biting insects that day, thankfully! I was briefly worried when I noticed the wasps around the tower, but once I realised there were only a few of them and they were not interested in us (or our food), I was fine.
      As a precaution, I did carry a small tube of anti-insect bite gel with me on all our walks, but never needed it.

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  6. Oh my, I love this post! The views from that tower, you know I love!
    And I also like the artist.
    AND the church and fountain.
    Wish I could have been with you!

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    1. You would have loved it, Kay - of course it was even more beautiful than what my poor pictures can convey, with the birdsong for a soundtrack and the scent of the woods.

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  7. I love the pictures of the chapel and the grotto. How lovely! Your walks are just filled with beauty.

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    1. It was a surprise to suddenly come across the chapel and grotto. I loved it that the chapel was open, and the whole place so well cared for.

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  8. Thank you for sharing this walk, it is so interesting, a beautiful landscape and such a variety of buildings and experiences.

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    1. You are welcome! And you're right, in spite of it not being a very long walk, it was interesting with its variations in landscape and buildings.

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