Friday 29 September 2023

Austria: Goats & Angels (Sept. 12)

The forecast for Tuesday, the 12th of September, was mixed - chances for rain and thunder were high, but the day was going to be quite warm at up to 27C (80F), and in any case, it started sunny and dry.

Morning view (7:37) from our balcony towards Kanisfluh...
..
...and along the valley.

As is our habit when we arrive at a hiking/walking holiday, we pick up leaflets with suggestions for tours, preferably close enough to not make a car journey necessary. We found one that ticked all the boxes: The "Goßarweag" (German "Geißer-Weg", meaning "goat herders' path").

For centuries, many people kept goats, especially those who could not afford cows. In areas such as Bregenzerwald, where pastures are precious and first and foremost served to feed the cows and horses, herders were needed to make sure the largely free-roaming goats would not graze on the best pastures - and not invade people's vegetable patches and orchards.
Therefore, every year in the spring, the herding rights were auctioned, and the herders (usually one experienced man and several boys, often barely in their early teens, if that) took responsibility of the village's goats, making sure that they stuck to the rules (try that with any animal, especially one as inquisitive and adventurous as your regular goat!), did not come to any harm and were returned to their rightful owners in time.

The route follows some of the herders' most popular paths, and there are several stops with sculptures of goats and information boards along the way. Especially with the boys, herding often provided a small, but much needed income for their families, and that way of life (from spring all through the summer until autumn) was a mix of physical hardship, loneliness and freedom - those boys were officially exempt from school (which of course meant they had "freedom" but would never gain more than the most basic education during the winter months).

climbing up from the village and looking back (yes, Kanisfluh again in the background)

I had to!

A glimpse of Bizau church from the woods

view of Bizau (and - you guessed it - Kanisfluh)
A sure sign of summer coming to its end: autumn crocus
in the woods
a clearing where goats may have been allowed in the past
Can you imagine having to lead a herd of goats along a path like this (in all weather)?
Farm at the end of Bizau

After having completed the tour, we took a bus into Bezau (where we'd been the day before to visit O.K.'s retired colleague) and took a stroll through the village (almost a small town), stopping to admire the church and then taking the funicular up to the mountain rising at the back of Bezau.

Angel (nearly life-size) in Bezau church - this one is for my Mum.

Bezau church

Bezau church

Quirky modern building in the centre of Bezau

The obligatory restaurant/beer garden at the top offered not only beautiful views, but also a refreshing shandy.
View from the top

Back down to the bus station, the short bus ride to Bizau and our hotel, a shower and then dinner - not in the garden this time, as the rain and thunder that had been threatening during the afternoon arrived just then.
It did not last long but brought a freshness to the air that was quite welcome.

14 comments:

  1. Such beautiful countryside. I love Autumn Crocus - a garden near me has a large clump in the middle of the lawn - they suddenly appear with no warning - flowers first leaves follow.

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    1. My Mum loves them, too. It was always something we would be looking for when we still used to do our favourite walk together, to my parents' allotment.

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  2. Yes I can imagine goats in that landscape. "Heidi" also came to mind for me while reading your post... (Classic children's book - but set in Switzerland, I think. Long time since I read it - if I ever did? I've probably also seen more than one film version...)

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    1. I did read "Heidi" (by Johanna Spyri) and saw several film/TV versions. The story is indeed set in Switzerland, but in the Alpine regions, life and work conditions were very similar, no matter whether you were in Austria, Switzerland, Tyrol or the Bavarian part of the mountains.

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  3. Beautiful countryside, thanks for taking us along with you. Like DawnTreader, Heidi came to my mind too and I could imagine Peter and Grandfather herding the village goats along. It was a favourite book when I was a child.

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    1. I guess most people of my generation were familiar with "Heidi", having read the book or watched a TV series/film version at some stage during their childhood. While I can't say it was a favourite of mine (I was more into the Narnia books, and anything written by Astrid Lindgren and Edith Nesbit), it is certainly a classic.

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  4. Oh, you lucked out for the weather during your hike! I'm glad the rain held off until dinner time!

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    1. We were fine - after dinner, we had no intention of going out again :-)

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  5. Thank you for the angel, I still believe in angels, as I said in my guest post.

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  6. There is something timeless about the light, feel and smell of the mountains, an if they have always been there and always will be, unchanged. A magical place to be.

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    1. At least during most people's lifetime, the mountains they see will remain unchanged - unless there is a massive landslide or earthquake.
      I wish our cameras would catch the light and colours as we saw them with our own eyes; even more magical.

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  7. Despite all the beauty and the memories all your pictures brought to me the yellow duck will be printed in my mind. They amuse me and I I find them very happifying.

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    1. It was quite an expected encounter, walking round the corner of the modern building amidst historic houses, and finding ourselves face to face with a giant rubber duck :-D

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