Thursday 17 February 2022

A Winey Walk

Is "winey" a real word? If not, I have just made it up for this post, and you'll shortly see why.

Last Saturday was beautiful, sunny and pleasant after a frosty start. O.K. had arrived at my place on the Friday evening, and we had the entire day to go out, until 6:00 pm when we were expected at my parents'.

View from my kitchen window on Saturday morning

There is a blog I regularly read, about walking and hiking paths in the Stuttgart region. It often comes up with attractive suggestions and offers all the information one needs to plan the outing.

For that day, I chose a "Wine Walk" as part of a network of such circuits created in the area near Ludwigsburg, along the rivers Neckar and Murr, covering the towns of Marbach, Benningen and others. 

I'd been to the bakery down the road earlier and prepared fresh snacks for us, plus an extra treat. We set off to Ludwigsburg's train station shortly after lunch time (which for us had been a late breakfast) and took the local train to Benningen. From there, the well sign-posted circuit started, taking us down into the Neckar valley, across the river on the footbridge and into Marbach's picturesque old town.

View from the footbridge between Benningen and Marbach. Can you spot the lone rower?

After doing the loop in the old town, the circuit lead past the beautiful old Alexander church (sorry, no pictures this time - I think I should go back there extra, preferably on a day when the church is open) and up the other side of the valley to the panoramic road winding along between vineyards, orchards and allotments.

A viewing platform has been built there not long ago, with stone seats and metal tables for all to enjoy the view. On this early Saturday afternoon, there was only one other person there, but I bet on a balmy evening it will be a very popular spot.

It was here that I opened my rucksack and brought out the treat I had packed, and we enjoyed a glass of white each in the sun along with the views:

The viaduct is the same one as in the previous photo. It is the railway line, and I regularly travel on it when I work in Marbach.


Benningen, where we've just come from.

Similar to my walk on Wednesday after work, there were many people working in their vineyards; it is the time of year when the vines need to be cut and everything is prepared to help them grow. Several times, we had to stand aside to let cars and tractors pass; the roads are good but rather narrow up there, with stone walls, hedges or fences limiting the possibilities for vehicles passing each other.


The circuit takes a loop to another viewing point above Marbach, called "Galgen" (gallows) - you can imagine where that name comes from. Nothing gruesome about the place nowadays; there is a playground and a stone table with markers as to what is where, in what direction and how far away. 


The plume of steam comes from the powerplant at Neckarwestheim. It is almost always visible in my area.

The benches were all wet and the ground around them very muddy, so we decided to make use of the stone table for our picnic.
After our short break, we walked on, following the signs for our circuit until at one point we weren't sure anymore. I still knew the general direction from what I had read in the description on the blog, and so it wasn't really a problem. Down the hill on the other side, towards the smaller river Murr, which we crossed to get into the town of Murr (yes, it is "Murr by the Murr"), and found the signs for our circuit again. 
Uphill again until we reached another panoramic path skirting Murr before it leads back to the vineyards above Benningen. The view here shows the small town of Steinheim, where my parents used to have their allotment (it has featured often on my blog) until a few years ago.

We crossed the river Neckar for the second time that day and made our way uphill through Benningen to the train station. As we were approaching the station, I heard the unmistakable sound of a train coming in, and we sprinted up the stairs, jumping through the open doors on the train at the very last moment!

It took me a while to catch my breath, and it was good that my rucksack was almost empty by now. Had we not caught that train, we would have had to wait half an hour for the next one; no problem really, but it was good to have made it.

We had enough time at home for a mug of coffee and a little rest before we walked to my parents', where we spent the evening eating the world's best lasagne, drinking more wine and generally having a good time.

Now you know why it was a winey walk!

19 comments:

  1. That sounds like a very enjoyable winey walk and you brought the perfect snacks and drinks for it! How nice that you were able to spend some time with your parents. I hope they are both doing well!

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    1. My parents live so close by (a 10-15 minute walk from my house), and yet I rarely see them more than once during the working week, which is of course entirely my fault. I try to fit in another visit with them on those weekends when we are here.

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  2. Good weather and your health made this day wonderful. Happy weekend to you.

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  3. From the vineyards above Benningen, and the Neckar Valley, to the small town of Steinheim, and the allotment which your mother and father once cultivated ...
    This is heavenly country.
    A glass of local wine is like the toast to the landscape and her people.

    I remember a former monastery, somewhere in the Odenwald, and taking part in a wine tasting ceremony. I drank a delicious dessert wine, nectar indeed.
    And the memory reminds me of the line in Hilaire Belloc's Tarantella:

    Do you remember an Inn,
    Miranda?
    Do you remember an Inn?

    Belloc was in the High Pyrenees.
    But he wrote about Germany in his classic travel book The Path to Rome, and in a later book of his which I have, Many Cities.
    Jack

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    1. The area around Marbach and what is called the Bottwartal is really beautiful, with the rivers Neckar and Murr, the many terraced vineyards, orchards and hills. I have always liked it but only recently begun walking off my own beaten paths there.

      The Path to Rome covers Germany? I am not familiar with Belloc or his work, but a classic travel book sounds good.

      The wine we had was, by the way, from even closer to home - the Herzog von Württemberg has his winery just on the outskirts of Ludwigsburg.

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  4. An old friend from Birmingham heard Belloc, Chesterton and Bernard Shaw debate before WWII.
    Her Birmingham was still a beautiful pre-modern city with the famous Bullring, the Victorian arcades and tramcars.

    A cradle Catholic (French father, Irish mother) Belloc was educated at Balliol College, Oxford, and fought with the French artillery in WWI.
    He published The Path To Rome in 1902, an account of his journey by foot from France to the Eternal City.
    *The German spirit is a marvel,* he writes on page 67 of my stout 1958 Penguin edition, which has pages stitched in linen thread.

    Pugnacious in spirit, Belloc thought the Reformers had some genuine grievances, but that the Reformation tore apart the seamless robe of Christ, led to the rise of European nationalism, territorial war, bloodshed, and atheism.
    He rejected the Whig view of history, and was disliked by the dons of Oxford for his views.
    He wrote that the English Reformation was spoliation, accused the English nobles of grabbing church lands, and named the guilty men of history as almost certainly in Hell.
    *The faith is Europe, Europe is the faith,* he wrote famously.

    Whenever the Catholic sun doth shine,
    There's always laughter and good red wine.

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  5. Replies
    1. Not for the first time, and no problem when we use only our feet and sometimes a local train for transport 😇

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  6. What a terrific walk! Gave you a big appetite for the yummy lasagna, I bet!

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    1. It did, and we managed to eat quite a lot - but not all - of it :-)

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  7. Winey walks! Now why didn't I think of that....

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    1. Never too late for one of your next walks, Debby :-)
      Have a safe trip!

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  8. You deserve the reward for carrying a bottle and fragile glasses in your rucksack. A very civilised way to spend an afternoon (and day).

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    1. It certainly was very civilised! We sometimes do that for our walks/hikes, pack glasses and some wine, but then it is mostly O.K. who carries it. No problem when everything is wrapped in teatowels, but we would not carry glasses etc. on a more Alpine path.

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  9. I MUST tell you one of my favorite jokes from a Christmas Cracker!!
    "What did the grapes say when they got stomped on?"
    "Nothing, they just let out a little wine (whine)."
    HA HA!! Cheers!

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    1. Ha ha, nobody can resisit a good Christmas cracker joke! And this one fits perfectly.

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