Austria: More Cows Than People (Sept. 17)

Sunday, the 17th of September, was sunny and warm again (25C/77F). 

View from our room at 7:40 that morning

Kanisfluh at the same time

The bus stop was just a few paces from our hotel, and since we could use all public transport in the area for free with our Guest Pass, we boarded a bus taking us to Schönenbach.

I have already explained a little bit about how goat and cows were (and still are) kept in this and most other Alpine regions; they stay in stables over the coldest part of the year before moving to pastures not too far away from the village for a while in the spring. The summer is spent on the highest pastures before at about the end of September, they return to the "middle" pastures and, usually before the first snowfall, to the village.

Bizau as a whole has used Schönenbach for centuries as their "middle" pastures, and this was exactly the time of year for it. A small settlement, not more than a few farm houses and a chapel, has developed around the pastures, not permanently inhabited.

In more recent times, a bus stop was added, and there are one or two larger houses now that serve as restaurants and beer gardens. A large parking lot is on the outskirts; generally, cars are not welcome - but tourists are, since they bring money, eating and drinking in the settlement, buying cheese directly from the farmers, and so on.

The bus ride from Bizau to Schönenbach is not far, only about 8 km. But it is adventurous in that the road is a narrow, winding one through woods and along a stream coming down from the mountains; bus drivers really have to know their stuff there.

Once past the cattle grid, the valley of Schönenbach opens up, and cows roam freely everywhere - and I mean everywhere. They were calmly strolling along on the road, the bus crawling carefully behind, until the cows decided they'd be better off on the grass. They are so used to people and the bus going through every hour, they don't mind - and they can always walk away.

Schönenbach chapel... and cows.

From the end of the valley...

...into the woods and up...

... looking back at Schönenbach.

One of several Alpen (Alpe = temporarily inhabited house for the people looking after the cows and making cheese), now closed until next summer.

Silver thistles

Another Alpe...

...closed for the winter.

At some stage, we heard music from afar, brass instruments playing church hymns. In the mountains, it can be hard to locate the source of sound, but we were pretty sure it came from a mountain top on the other side of the valley. This was confirmed when we talked to the hotel owner later; four or five men had indeed carried their brass instruments up to the top for a "mountain mass". I must say I found this quite moving, and loved the unusual, but very fitting "sound track" to part of our hike.

Back in Schönenbach, we walked all along the bottom of the valley into the "centre". The place was heaving with people, mostly families and groups, who parked their car on the large parking lot and then walked to one of the restaurants/beer gardens. It was impossible to find a seat there, but we spotted a self-service place in the back yard of one of the dairies, where cold drinks, cheese and other things could be taken from a fridge and paid for via a trust box. 

The farmers had kindly provided benches and tables, too, and O.K. and I were grateful for a sit down and a shandy while waiting for the bus back to Bizau. After all, we had hiked 12.5 km, covering a difference of 500 m in height. We had met very few people along the way, and coming into Schönenbach now with its crowds felt almost like entering a city - had it not been for the cows everywhere.

gilded Jesus at the lane entering Schönenbach

Schönenbach chapel. It was locked; Sunday mass had been much earlier.

The reliable bus took us back into Bizau. After a short rest at the hotel, we were out again. Remember the rainy Wednesday, where we'd discovered a small chapel on the only short walk we were able to do that day? Neither of us had a camera then, but I wanted to go back another time to take pictures, and so we did that.

It wasn't far to go, just up the village from our hotel, and up the hill where the chapel stood.

Bizau

Private chapel (Bildbühel)

A chronic of the chapel was provided, and people could add their own thoughts and prayers to it.

A large old tree protecs the chapel.

A better look inside. It was spotless, very well cared for.

We met this cat on the way home. He politely came up for a quick pet, but was far more interested in whatever was rustling in the grass.

Sunset, as seen from our room

Another beautiful day, ending on a delicious meal, and a Sunday fully living up to its name.